Shoal Bay to Kwatsi Bay

June 14 – Matilpi

Shoal Bay to Matilpi, in the Broughton Islands, 39.88 nautical miles
Total this trip to date: 227.66 NM

This morning at Shoal Bay we had our choice of leaving to catch the early slacks or leisurely leaving in the afternoon to do the afternoon slacks. The current was with us in the morning, so we decided to catch the morning slacks, and pulled out of Shoal Bay at 0715. It was really cold this morning (44°) and we certainly are glad we have a good diesel heater! We planned to either stop and anchor in Forward Harbor, or if the weather was good, to go all the way to the Broughtons.

We encountered more whirlpools in Green Point Rapids than we remember from past trips. The way to get through this area where there are two rapids to transit and no good place to stop in between, is to go through Green Point Rapids about an hour early and Whirlpool Rapids about an hour late. We were lucky this morning and, other than the whirlpools as we left Green Point behind, we were just about on time for Whirlpool Rapids and had a very easy time transiting them.

As we left Whirlpool Rapids, rather than turning in to Forward Harbor, we decided to take advantage of what appeared to be a relatively calm Johnstone Strait, and headed out Sunderlund Channel. The Straits were good to us, and about two hours later, we turned off Johnstone Strait at the Broken Group and headed down Havannah Channel.

We usually proceed directly through Chatham Channel, but today it was flowing about 6 knots against us about the time we wanted to go through. So, we decided to stop before the channel and tried a new anchorage. We turned in to Matilpi, an anchorage between the mainland and a small Indian Island. It is marked by a lovely shell beach and is written up in our reference books as a quiet anchorage with good holding and protection from most winds. Two fish boats came in after we anchored and rafted together behind us.

Still raining today, with high temps around 58 and a few sunbreaks (very few!). We hope this weather will improve soon!

Heading north in Cordero Channel, approaching Mayne Passage

Entering Johnstone Strait, very good conditions

Rosie looking out into the rain and
contemplating our anchorage at Matilpi

White shell beach at Matilpi

June 15 and 16 – Kwatsi Bay Marina

Matilpi to Kwatsi Bay, 25.32 nautical miles

Total this trip to date: 252.98 NM

June 15

Early this morning, we watched the tide go out at our anchorage at Matilpi. Low tide was around 8 AM, and the water dropped 14 feet from the high tide yesterday when we anchored. It is a small anchorage, and we found ourselves VERY close to the shore, but our depth sounders still showed over 30 feet. Got us going early!

We left to catch the slack current in Chatham Channel, which was less than two miles away. Easy transit, as we carefully watched the range markers. As we exited the channel, we entered Knight Inlet and found ourselves motoring into a 15 knot NW wind that was kicking up a few waves. As we turned to enter Tribune Channel, we took advantage of the cell phone coverage in that area to call Kwatsi Bay Marina to make sure we could find moorage.

Tribune Channel is a gorgeous fjord, lined with majestic snow-capped mountains. It is one of our favorite places. It was disappointing today, however, because the cloud cover hid the tops of the mountains. Still a nice ride though.

As we entered Kwatsi Bay, the mountains shielded us from the wind, and the water became calm. We found only two other boats here. Max, the marina owner, greeted us and told us where to side tie. Anca and Russell are in Port McNeill this week. Max told us about a lot of weather damage they sustained this past winter. It’s been a long, hard winter all over the west coast, and BC is no exception.

Max arranged a happy hour at 5 PM and the crews from Phoenix, Safari, and Easy Goin’ gathered and told sea stories. The sun actually came out in the evening and we can almost see the top of Mt. Read, the snow-capped mountain just west of Kwatsi Bay.

June 16

We decided to stay a second day at Kwatsi Bay to catch our breath and so that Jim could work on our Internet router. We’ve had it for a while and have been using it propped up on a settee (which has been a bit of a nuisance), so this is a nice quiet place where we can take care of mounting it to a bulkhead in a forward cabin hanging locker.

Alice had some time this afternoon to bake bread, so we got out the bread machine and it just produced a fresh loaf of light whole-wheat bread. Smells wonderful! Today has also been a good opportunity to clean up the boat...both inside and outside.

The sun actually broke through the clouds for a while this afternoon and we saw the thermometer hit 70…but it feels a little cooler in the wind. Some fog this morning, but otherwise quiet here at the dock.

Max is planning a potluck on the dock at 6 PM. Easy Goin’ left this morning, leaving Phoenix and Safari at the dock. This afternoon, an American Tug and five sailboats have arrived. So far there are eight boats at the dock  for tonight.

Matilpi at low tide

Entering Tribune Channel, Alice on the bow adjusting
our Hawaii Yacht Club burgee

Magnificent Tribune Channel with clouds hiding
the tops of the snow-capped mountains

The dock and store at Kwatsi Bay Marina

The top of Mt. Read (across from the entrance
to Kwatsi Bay) finally came out of the clouds

Jim running cables in the main cabin to locate the
Internet router in the forward cabin